Details

Autor(en) / Beteiligte

• Casal-Valls, Laura

Titel

Fashioning Modernity: Elite Dressmaking in Barcelona c. 1870–1919

Ist Teil von

• Costume, 2016-07, Vol.50 (2), p.220-243

Ort / Verlag

London: Routledge

Erscheinungsjahr

2016

Quelle

Taylor & Francis Journals Auto-Holdings Collection

Beschreibungen/Notizen

• Late nineteenth-century fashion in Barcelona is examined through the development of the dressmaker’s craft, taking account of the historical context and changes in society at the turn of the century. Analysis of the production process, surviving garments and archival evidence demonstrates that a substantial change took place in the organization of the dressmaking industry in Barcelona in the late nineteenth century. This included the insertion of dressmakers’ labels in the most technically and stylistically sophisticated garments, signalling an increasing recognition of leading dressmakers — a process similar to that found in French couture. Juana Valls has been identified as a key designer who, although almost unknown today, was highly successful and prominent at the turn of the twentieth century; a brief biography of Valls is developed. Finally, following this evolutionary period, the year 1919 is proposed as a turning point for Catalan and Spanish couture.