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Energy and dissipation spectra of waves propagating in the inner surf zone

Journal of fluid mechanics, 2023-12, Vol.977, Article A48

Bonneton, Philippe

2023

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New Perspectives for Nonlinear Depth‐Inversion of the Nearshore Using Boussinesq Theory

Geophysical research letters, 2023-01, Vol.50 (2), p.n/a

2023

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SNR-Based Water Height Retrieval in Rivers: Application to High Amplitude Asymmetric Tides in the Garonne River

Remote sensing (Basel, Switzerland), 2021-05, Vol.13 (9), p.1856

2021

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Wave-Filtered Surf Zone Circulation under High-Energy Waves Derived from Video-Based Optical Systems

Remote sensing (Basel, Switzerland), 2021-05, Vol.13 (10), p.1874

2021

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Headland Rip Modelling at a Natural Beach under High-Energy Wave Conditions

Journal of marine science and engineering, 2021-11, Vol.9 (11), p.1161

2021

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Identifying 2010 Xynthia Storm Signature in GNSS-R-Based Tide Records

Remote sensing (Basel, Switzerland), 2019-04, Vol.11 (7), p.782

2019

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High Frequency Field Measurements of an Undular Bore Using a 2D LiDAR Scanner

Remote sensing (Basel, Switzerland), 2017-05, Vol.9 (5), p.462

2017

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Field observations of an evolving rip current on a meso-macrotidal well-developed inner bar and rip morphology

Continental shelf research, 2009-07, Vol.29 (14), p.1650-1662

2009

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Field Measurements of a High-Energy Headland Deflection Rip Current: Tidal Modulation, Very Low Frequency Pulsation and Vertical Structure

Journal of marine science and engineering, 2020-07, Vol.8 (7), p.534

2020

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Derivation of asymptotic two-dimensional time-dependent equations for surface water wave propagation

Physics of fluids (1994), 2009, Vol.21 (1)

2009

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Numerical modeling of subaqueous sand dune morphodynamics

Journal of geophysical research. Earth surface, 2016-03, Vol.121 (3), p.565-587

2016

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Assessment of the decadal morphodynamic evolution of a mixed energy inlet using ocean color remote sensing

Ocean dynamics, 2014-10, Vol.64 (10), p.1517-1530

2014

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Dispersive characteristics of non-linear waves propagating and breaking over a mildly sloping laboratory beach

Coastal engineering (Amsterdam), 2021-08, Vol.167, p.103917, Article 103917

2021

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Headland Rip Very Low Frequency Fluctuations and Surfzone Eddies During High-Energy Wave Events

Journal of physical oceanography, 2022-12, Vol.52 (12), p.2935-2956

2022

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Headland Rip Very-low-Frequency Fluctuations and Surf Zone Eddies during High-Energy Wave Events

Journal of physical oceanography, 2022-09

2022

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A nonlinear weakly dispersive method for recovering the elevation of irrotational surface waves from pressure measurements

Coastal engineering (Amsterdam), 2018-08, Vol.138, p.1-8

2018

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Relation between orbital velocities, pressure and surface elevation in non-linear nearshore water waves

Journal of physical oceanography, 2021-11

2021

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Spatial Variability of Wave Conditions on the French Atlantic Coast using In-Situ Data

Journal of coastal research, 2002-03, Vol.36 (sp1), p.96-108

2002

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Infragravity waves: From driving mechanisms to impacts

Earth-science reviews, 2018-02, Vol.177, p.774-799

2018

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A splitting approach for the fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive Green–Naghdi model

Journal of computational physics, 2011-02, Vol.230 (4), p.1479-1498

2011

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Implementation and Evaluation of Breaking Detection Criteria for a Hybrid Boussinesq Model

Water Waves An interdisciplinary journal, 2020-11, Vol.2 (2), p.207-241

2020

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Dispersive and dispersive-like bores in channels with sloping banks

Journal of fluid mechanics, 2019-07, Vol.870, p.595-616

2019

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Relation between Orbital Velocities, Pressure, and Surface Elevation in Nonlinear Nearshore Water Waves

Journal of physical oceanography, 2021-11, Vol.51 (11), p.3539

2021

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A new approach to handle wave breaking in fully non-linear Boussinesq models

Coastal engineering (Amsterdam), 2012-09, Vol.67, p.54-66

2012

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Recovering water wave elevation from pressure measurements

Journal of fluid mechanics, 2017-12, Vol.833, p.399-429

2017

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Energy and dissipation spectra of waves propagating in the inner surf zone

New Perspectives for Nonlinear Depth‐Inversion of the Nearshore Using Boussinesq Theory

SNR-Based Water Height Retrieval in Rivers: Application to High Amplitude Asymmetric Tides in the Garonne River

Wave-Filtered Surf Zone Circulation under High-Energy Waves Derived from Video-Based Optical Systems

Headland Rip Modelling at a Natural Beach under High-Energy Wave Conditions

Identifying 2010 Xynthia Storm Signature in GNSS-R-Based Tide Records

High Frequency Field Measurements of an Undular Bore Using a 2D LiDAR Scanner

Field observations of an evolving rip current on a meso-macrotidal well-developed inner bar and rip morphology

Field Measurements of a High-Energy Headland Deflection Rip Current: Tidal Modulation, Very Low Frequency Pulsation and Vertical Structure

Derivation of asymptotic two-dimensional time-dependent equations for surface water wave propagation

Numerical modeling of subaqueous sand dune morphodynamics

Assessment of the decadal morphodynamic evolution of a mixed energy inlet using ocean color remote sensing

Dispersive characteristics of non-linear waves propagating and breaking over a mildly sloping laboratory beach

Headland Rip Very Low Frequency Fluctuations and Surfzone Eddies During High-Energy Wave Events

Headland Rip Very-low-Frequency Fluctuations and Surf Zone Eddies during High-Energy Wave Events

A nonlinear weakly dispersive method for recovering the elevation of irrotational surface waves from pressure measurements

Relation between orbital velocities, pressure and surface elevation in non-linear nearshore water waves

Spatial Variability of Wave Conditions on the French Atlantic Coast using In-Situ Data

Infragravity waves: From driving mechanisms to impacts

A splitting approach for the fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive Green–Naghdi model

Implementation and Evaluation of Breaking Detection Criteria for a Hybrid Boussinesq Model

Dispersive and dispersive-like bores in channels with sloping banks

Relation between Orbital Velocities, Pressure, and Surface Elevation in Nonlinear Nearshore Water Waves

A new approach to handle wave breaking in fully non-linear Boussinesq models

Recovering water wave elevation from pressure measurements

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