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The scene is spectacular—a low, forested hilltop that rises above a sea of forest in the southern Yucatán Peninsula. On this hilltop were built the temples of the Maya city of Tikal. Since the waning of this civilization a thousand years ago, the varied flora and fauna of the tropical forest have largely reclaimed the ancient ruins. Today, visitors to this site are inspired by both the shadows of the human past and the brilliance of the natural world of the present.
Between early February and late August, Swallow-tailed Kites (Elanoides forficatus) soar and careen above Tikal’s forests, and